How you can test if a relay is functioning properly? To test the relay, you only need a 9V battery for the most basic test.
Relays have 3 kinds of terminals, coil terminals, NC and NO terminals. NC is normally closed. NO is normally open. The Coil terminals control the state of the relay. Closed or open.
NC is letting electricity pass thru the relay when there is no voltage and electric current flow across the relay coil terminals. When the coil is energized, the NO terminals, close and let electricity flow.
Just place the battery on the relay terminals that are connected to the relay coil. When you place the 9 volts battery on the relay coil terminals, the relay will click. Try the switching the + and – positive and negative terminals if the coil doesn’t work.
Relay test video
Showing in the video the power supply of an old JVC VCR. Matshushita JD2a-DC12V AJD491
And a Chinese Arduino relay module. Songle brand. SRD-05VDC-SL-C 10A 250VAC
The ORICO HDD Docking Station Enclosure is a hard drive and SSD docking station enclosure. Showing unboxing and testing.
Tested HDD spin-down sleep mode when the hard disk is inactive. Tested hard disk spin down on Windows safe remove event. Checked on Windows 10, worked from the beginning, plug and play no need to install any drivers.
This is a hard disk docking station HDD enclosure. It needs no tools to use. It’s a tool-free installation for the HDD or SSD.
The ORICO HDD Docking Station supports HDD and SSD of 2.5 inch and 3.5 inch form factor size. Connects to the PC with USB 3.0 for fast data transfer. Supports SATA 3Gbps – SATA 2 (SATA II) and SATA 6Gbps SATA 3 (SATA III). In the video I say it supports only SATA II but it actually suppots SATA III too, I was confused, sorry.
ORICO HDD docking station unboxing and tests video
Specifications: Manufacturer: ORICO Technologies Product Name: 2.5 & 3.5 Inch SATA USB 3.0 Hard Drive Dock Product: ORICO 6518US3 Code: ORICO 6518US3-V1-BK Dimensions: 180*122*41mm Meets USB 3.0 standard for data transfer, rate up to 5Gbps.
Power adapter specifications: RS-AB02J00 Input AC 100-240V 50/60Hz 0,8A Max Output: DC 12V 2A Power connector: 2.5mm power jack, center pis is positive.
Made in: China
It supports SATA2 (SATA II) and SATA 3 (SATA III).
I have tested this enclosure with the WD Mycloud. Tried to connect it to the USB 3.0 host port of the My cloud and it DID NOT WORK. It may be possible to force the drive to be mounted. Tried ssh but couldn’t mount the drive. Also I did not format the HDD to check if after formatting the WD Mycloud will see the drive. If you have this hard disk dock and it works with the Mycloud write bellow in the comment how you did it! 🙂
If you want this for Mycloud backups it might be better to look at other enclosures.
The enclosure will power-down the hard disk after approx 5-10 min. of inactivity and it will power-up the hard disk once the drive it’s accessed. This works perfectly. I refer the HDD to be powered down when not in use to reduce power use and reduce heat and wear in the summer.
Sometimes too many power-up power-down cycles are not good but in my case it will be for backups so it won’t be accessed all the time.
If you want to ask anything about the enclosure, just ask in the comment section bellow and please subscribe! 🙂
Thanks for Watching and reading.
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Did you Break a SATA Connector on your Motherboard?
Showing you how to fix a SATA connector when it breaks from the Motherboard (MB). When you pull the SATA cable without pressing the release pins before, the connector on the Motherboard can come out with the sata cable.
If the SATA pin header connections are still intact, you can fix the SATA connections with this trick.
You must try this only if you have experience with fixing small parts. This needs very steady hands and a lot of patience. You should not press the SATA connector plastic housing but just let it slide down on the pins.
All SATA pins must align with the sata connector housing to be able to fix this.
Use Epoxy glue to secure the sata connector on the Motherboard. Do not use super glue! I have used superglue before and it doesn’t last because there is mechanical tension and the Motherboard flexes slightly when you press down the SATA cable on the connector.
Broken SATA Connector on Motherboard video
Thanks for reading.
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How to change or replace an Apple iPhone 5/5S battery. Showing the difficult parts and how to easily replace the iPhone battery yourself.
The old battery was dead and would not hold a charge anymore and was getting hot during charging. Battery life was very short(1-2h max.).
This is an easy fix/ repair that you can do yourself. It’s the first time I do this, if I could do it, you can do it too!
iPhone 5S battery replacement video
Original battery is Li-ion Polymer, 1560mAh 3.8v DC 5.92Whr 4.3V full charge APN: 616-0718 VPN: A69TA006H GB/T 18287-2000 Made by Simplo Technology(Changshu) Inc. Made in Thailand Manufacture date 08/2013
This fix is easy to DIY at home do but you need to have steady hands to repair your iPhone. If in doubt, do not do this yourself and take it to your nearest repair shop to do it for you.
This DIY howto video shows you how to change or replace the battery in your Apple iPhone 5S smartphone. This works for iPhone 5C too. Showing a macro / close-up view of the important moments when changing the iPhone battery.
I have changed the battery before on my iPhone, that’s why it’s more easy to change it now. Reusing the original battery glue strips means that it’s easier to remove the battery when you change it again later.
The old battery was starting to get weaker at about 70% of it’s original capacity and I’ve decided not to wait until the battery lasts 2 hours again like before.
Also wanted to show you a better view of the important moments with macro video. 🙂
If this is the first time the battery is changes on you iPhone or new glue strips were installed before, you can pull the tab with the glue string (shown in video) to remove them or use the alternative method and not that it will be more difficult than it’s shown here. The original glue strips can be softened if you heat the back of the phone with a hair dryer or heat-gun.
You can do this easy fix or repair yourself. It’s the second time I do this, if I could do it, you can do it too!
Made a second video with detailed instructions about how to do this battery change:
Mod the LGA 775 Motherboard to accept a LGA 771 CPU
Xeon X5460 Running with 3 sticks of RAM, OCZ Reaper. Later I added 1 more RAM module totaling 8GB installed memory
On Abit IP-35, if the bios contains both LGA 775 and LGA 771 micorcodes, it will not work with Windows 8.1 and higher. Windows 8 and bellow still work even if the microcodes are for both platforms in the bios.
X5460 – my bios settings
CPUZ details in idle and load at 3.8 GHz.
ONLY FOR ABIT IP-35 – Moding the bios – E0
I have modded the last bios(the E0 version) released for this MB, to include only 45nm processors on platform 771, removing the 775 45nm.
This can work with other processors but I have not tested it.
As far as I know, E0 is the last supported stepping on ABIT-IP35.
The last bios that was released for this MB is considered by some to be v18 but that’s WRONG. There was an E0 version that included both 775 and 771 CPU microcodes.
These are the microcodes of the original bios:
The mod consists of removing the CPUID 1067A – Plat 0,4 – that is 45nm CPUs on LGA775
The modded bios contents:
Now only CPUID 1067A is on Plat 2,6 – meaning LGA771 socket and 45nm CPU.
Download modded BIOS
This is the bios file already modded, just needs to be flashed – use only after reading all warnings bellow!
Now, please, PLEASE note that YOU ARE DOING THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK!
YOUR COMPUTER MAY NOT WORK AFTER USING THIS MODDED BIOS.
YOU ARE RESPONSIBLE FOR YOUR OWN ACTIONS!
IF YOU DON’T KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING STOP NOW!
THIS BIOS IS ONLY FOR ABIT IP-35 AND MIGHT WORK ON IP35-E(but I’have not tested it on that MB), — IT WILL NOT WORK FOR THE I-P-35 -PRO