Category Archives: Computer build

Posta about building your own computer from parts.

Samsung 850 EVO speed test on SATA II ports

Today we unbox, install and speed-test the Samsung 850 EVO SSD drive on an old SATA 2 ( SATA II) port in my old but good 10+ year old motherboard… the Abit IP-35 🙂

Watch our whole video of the unboxing, installation and testing including real-time Windows 10 startup test on an SSD.

Samsung 850 EVO speed test on SATA II ports video

Testing the Samsung 850 EVO

V-NAND SSD drive 2.5 inch size that fits both in laptops and in a desktop PC.

When installing the SSD in a desktop computer, you might need a HDD bracket adapter from 2.5 inch to 3.5 inch HDD bay. If your case has a 2.5” HDD bay you won’t need any adapters.

This 2.5” HDD has standard SATA power and data connections.

It has mounting holes on the sides and also on the bottom of the drive.

The SSD shown here and in the video is the 500GB version.

Specifications:
Make: Samsung Electronics
Model: Samsung 850 EVO
MZ-75E500
Type: Solid State Drive
Interface: SATA III (SATA 6Gb/s), compatible with SATA II (SATA 3Gb/s) and SATA I (1.5Gb/s)  Interface

Up to 540 MB/sec Sequential Read
Up to 520 MB/sec Sequential Write
Random Read (4KB, QD32):Up to 98,000 IOPS Random Read
Random Read (4KB, QD1):Up to 10,000 IOPS Random Read Random Write (4KB, QD32):Up to 90,000 IOPS Random Write
Random Write (4KB, QD1):Up to 40,000 IOPS Random Write
Memory Speed: Samsung V-NAND 3bit MLC 512MB LPDDR3
Controller: Samsung MGX Controller
Supports: Trim, AES 256-bit Full Disk Encryption, S.M.A.R.T., Garbage Collection.
Reliability (MTBF): 1.5 Million Hours (MTBF)
5 Years Limited Warranty or 150TBW Limited Warranty

Full drive specifications: here

SSD performance when used in best conditions – SATA3 can achieve the bellow speeds but we will test it on SATA 2.

If your PC is running SATA in IDE mode you should change to AHCI mode to increase performance.

Install the Samsung Magician app/program and it will tell you if Trim and AHCI are enabled.

Normally when changing from IDE to AHCI you would need to reinstall the Windows operating system but there is a way to avoid that.

 

Simple instructions:

  1. Press WindowsKey+R
  2. Type “regedit” without quotes and press enter,
  3. Navigate to this registry key:  “Computer\HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\storahci\StartOverride”
  4. Find the D_WORD key named “0” and double click to edit it’s value
  5. Change the value from 3 to 0
  6. Press ok, close everything and restart the computer
  7. Go to bios and change SATA mode to AHCI (different depending on your MB manufacturer)

Start windows and check in Samsung Magician that the AHCI is reported as enabled.

Once that looks good it’s time to use the Data migration tool / application to clone the old hard disk on to the new SSD.

Doing this helps you save time but watch carefully in the video that there are some potential problems that you can avoid if you follow the steps.

Once cloning is complete, the SSD will become the system drive.

Tested the SSD on SATA2 and even though the sequential read spead is limited by the SATA II interface bandwith the random access speed is much much greater that what the old HDD was able to provide.

In the test we reached more than 280MB read/write speed and in the real world that should make it worth upgrading to SSD even if you don’t have SATA 3 (SATA III) ports on your motherboard.

The 850 EVO is much faster than our needs but paid less for it because the new 860 EVO was released… Could have used a slower drive because the interface is the bottleneck here but this was the cheapest 500GB drive I could find locally at the time we bought this.

If you thing about upgrading to SSD, do it! 🙂

Brand doesn’t matter, any SSD will be faster than your old HDD!
Just think about how much space you need, and then find the cheapest from any of the top 10 manufacturers.

Write a comment bellow if you upgraded your PC storage and are excited as I was when saw the speed of this thing! 🙂

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Broken SATA Connector on Motherboard Fixed

  1. Did you Break a  SATA Connector on your Motherboard?

Showing you how to fix a SATA connector when it breaks from the Motherboard (MB).
When you pull the SATA cable without pressing the release pins before, the connector on the Motherboard can come out with the sata cable.

If the SATA pin header connections are still intact, you can fix the SATA connections with this trick.

You must try this only if you have experience with fixing small parts.
This needs very steady hands and a lot of patience.
You should not press the SATA connector plastic housing but just let it slide down on the pins.

All SATA pins must align with the sata connector housing to be able to fix this.

Use Epoxy glue to secure the sata connector on the Motherboard.
Do not use super glue! I have used superglue before and it doesn’t last because there is mechanical tension and the Motherboard flexes slightly when you press down the SATA cable on the connector.

Broken SATA Connector on Motherboard video

Thanks for  reading.

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Maxtor D3 Station – 4TB External HDD Unboxing and Test

Maxtor / Seagate D3 Station – 4TB External HDD Unboxing and Test
This external hard disk (HDD) comes with a large variation of power adapters.

In the box:

  • HDD
  • USB 3.0 data cable
  • Power supply and socket adapters
  • Manual, warranty, blah blah…

For the drive to spin-up you must connect power and the data cable. If only power is connected, it will stay in sleep mode.

During a transfer speed test the drive just stopped working and an error message popped up about the drive being gone.
Checked the windows event log and that confirmed, the drive dissapeared on it’s own and the event log had errors related to the HDD.

After a bit of troubleshooting I’ve realized that the USB 3.0 extension I was using was ‘not good enough’.
Connect the HDD directly to the USB port in the computer, no cheapo USB extensions and you’ll be alright. 🙂

If you like this review & video, please consider subscribing to my YouTube channel – DragosIonRO

Thanks for reading! 🙂

X5460 Mod – 3.8 GHz on Abit IP-35 Overclock Xeon

Overclocking the Xeon X5460 3.8 GHz on Abit IP-35 with 8GB OCZ Reaper RAM.

Here are the settings I use for my PC build.

A few tips:

  • The DRAM voltage is for OCZ Reaper (requires 2.2V) yours might be different.
  • If you apply the sticker yourself, be extra careful to place it in the correct position, see video.
  • Do not to bend any pins in the CPU socket when you cut the plastic tabs, video.
  • Try to keep the RAM frequency bellow the rated speed. Don’t OC your RAM.
  • If the NB on the motherboard gets too hot when you overclock, it will need extra cooling. Too hot is when you can’t keep your finger on it for a few seconds.
  • Increase the CPU voltage in small steps if you need to. I didn’t really need to do this.
  • If you find this helpful, please, Subscribe to my YouTube channel. 🙂

 

Hardware

CPU: Xeon X5460 LGA 771
Mainboard(MB): Abit IP-35 LGA 775
RAM: DDR2 2GBx4(8GB) OCZ Reaper

Videos

Mod the LGA 775 Motherboard to accept a LGA 771 CPU

Xeon X5460 Running with 3 sticks of RAM, OCZ Reaper. Later I added 1 more RAM module totaling 8GB installed memory

 

On Abit IP-35, if the bios contains both LGA 775 and LGA 771 micorcodes, it will not work with Windows 8.1 and higher. Windows 8 and bellow still work even if the microcodes are for both platforms in the bios.

 

X5460 – my bios settings

bios-softmenu
bios-softmenu-x5460

 

bios-ram
bios-ram

 

bios-pc-health
bios-pc-health

CPUZ

CPUZ details in idle and load at 3.8 GHz.

CPUZ-Idle-X5460
CPUZ-Idle

 

CPUZ-Load-X5460
CPUZ-Load

 

cpuz-mbinfo
cpuz-mbinfo

 

cpuz-ram
cpuz-ram

 

 

ONLY FOR ABIT IP-35 – Moding the bios – E0

I have modded the last bios(the E0 version) released for this MB, to include only 45nm processors on platform 771, removing the 775 45nm.

This can work with other processors but I have not tested it.

As far as I know, E0 is the last supported stepping on ABIT-IP35.

The last bios that was released for this MB is considered by some to be v18 but that’s WRONG. There was an E0 version that included both 775 and 771 CPU microcodes.

These are the microcodes of the original bios:

diyrno_M630A_e0_orig_microcodes_150813
diyrno_M630A_e0_orig_microcodes_150813

The mod consists of removing the CPUID 1067A – Plat 0,4 – that is 45nm CPUs on LGA775

The modded bios contents:

diyrno_bios_771only_edited_e0771M630A_170127
diyrno_bios_771only_edited_e0771M630A_170127

Now only CPUID 1067A is on Plat 2,6 – meaning LGA771 socket and 45nm CPU.

Download modded BIOS

This is the bios file already modded, just needs to be flashed – use only after reading all warnings bellow!

Now, please, PLEASE note that YOU ARE DOING THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK!

YOUR COMPUTER MAY NOT WORK AFTER USING THIS MODDED BIOS.

YOU ARE RESPONSIBLE FOR YOUR OWN ACTIONS!

IF YOU DON’T KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING STOP NOW!

THIS BIOS IS ONLY FOR ABIT IP-35 AND MIGHT WORK ON IP35-E(but I’have not tested it on that MB),   —  IT WILL NOT WORK  FOR  THE  I-P-35 -PRO

Download file: BIOS-E0-771-ONLY-ABIT-IP-35_e0771M630A

 

If it works, let me know in the comments 🙂
And please Subscribe to my YouTube channel. 🙂

Cheers!